Travel Despatch 1

I’ve been in the US for five days, and here I am at three in the morning wide awake . The conference was so busy, my hours there were so odd, and I got so little ultraviolet on the back of my knees that there seems to have been no impact on my jetlag at all. I arrived in Manhattan yesterday at six in the evening, had checked into a (relatively) cheap hotel room on West 45th Street by eight, went to a nearby food outlet where I paid by the pound for some rice and chicken and watched a nice man on CNN  saying that racism exists in the US and is being deployed vigorously in the healthcare debate, and came back to the hotel expecting to sleep like a stone for 10 hours. At 12.30 I snapped awake, my body saying things like, ‘It’s two in the afternoon, you lazy sod, let’s walk the dog!’ If only I’d been this lively at 8.30 I might have gone to see some largely naked actors reciting Leaves of Grass or done something similarly appropriate.

I don’t now what to tell you. There are squirrels in Connecticut, though I didn’t get out in the warm summer sun to see them until the end of the conference. An old friend there told me there was a TV ad for an insurance company that always reminded him of me — and lo, just before the nice anti-racist man came on CNN last night, there was the ad in question. The insurance company is called something like Geico, and the ad features a talking gecko. I couldn’t hear what he was saying (the anti-racist man had subtitles), but I was shocked to see what my old friend meant: apart from the Australian accent, and leaving aside the cute voice, the lizard attributes and the Jiminy Cricket gestures, the little green creature was unnervingly like me when I’m enjoying a bit of craic.

Apart from that little moment, everything here seems just a little bigger than necessary, and the Theatre Theater  District is dazzling: the Scottish restaurant on 42nd Street would have done a Busby Berkeley premiere proud.

My Mac’s screen is broken. I dropped it and next time I turned it on, there was a beautiful abstract design obscuring two thirds of the screen. I can still ue it, but there are ominous signs that even that remaining third is about to die. When daylight comes I’ll set out on what I expect to be a fruitless search for someone who will repair it before I have to  fly to Paris at 5 pm. Wish me luck!

OK, back to bed and Anna Karenina. Sadly it’s far too interesting so far to be a reliable soporific — I’m at the two thirds point, Anna and Vronsky are in Venice where things aren’t looking too good, and Levin and Kitty are discovering that the joys of marriage are quite other than they’d imagined. The fact that I’m reading it after the Book Group discussion only intensifies the weird sense that I’m reading for the first time something that I’ve known reasonably well for years — like meeting a good friend’s old friend.

Next time I write I expect I’ll be  France. It’s not a hard life.

Extras

I’m getting up scarily early tomorrow to catch a plane, but I couldn’t go to bed without a quick note about this evening. Penny and I and quite a few other people were extras in the film Alex is making as part of his year-long director’s course at AFTRS. That’s the Australian Film Television and Radio School. We spent hours standing around being bored, and minutes sitting in front of the camera – at least I was sitting, pretending to eat disgusting noodles, while Penny had a more upright role, wearing an anti-infection mask. I loved seeing – and being a small part of –  the well-oiled machinery of a film shoot in action, and I especially loved seeing the way the two actors, in the midst of so much noise and busyness, managed to make something happen between them. All this happened beneath the roar of the Expressway in Pyrmont, close to the city. I took a number of blurry photos with my phone camera. No time for more – here is Alex with actor Richard Green (of Boxing Day fame), a masked Penny, Alex in a variety of directorial  moments (including one with Anna Lise Phillips with an umbrella – did I mention it rained a fair bit? Anna Lise lent me her hoodie), and the disgusting noodles.

I’ll miss the big event!

On Wednesday morning I catch a plane to the US. I’ll be attending a conference in Connecticut over next weekend and then flying on to meet up with Penny in Paris. We plan to spend a month together in France, visiting friends in Paris for a couple of days, then spending a week in a small village near Avignon, enjoying a home exchange, a week walking from Orléans to Gien with Sentiers de France, a week in another home exchange at La Grande Motte, near Montpelier, and another couple of days in Paris. I’m taking the computer, and it’s possible I’ll find the time and inclination to blog. Then again, maybe not.

Meanwhile, exciting things will be happening on the home front:

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Yes, the unbearably long wait is almost over, and I’m going to be somewhere in rural France on the day of the grand opening. I hope some of my readers will manage to turn up and send me a photo or two …

I did print out all my entries about the saga a couple of weeks back and leave them under the shop door.  A few days later, I was nearly bumped into by Rod while out with the dog. He came bursting out of the side door, bright orange ear muffs on his head and an arm full of timber offcuts. ‘Jonathan?’ he said. I was impressed, because although we’ve chatted regularly I didn’t think we’d exchanged names. He recognised me from my gravatar (over on the right). He invited me in for a sneak preview. I didn’t have a camera with me, but I can tell you it’s not a bland space. My first impression was of a Japanese feel – one wall features a large manga-type image with graffiti tags, there’s a lot of wood, and an eclectic array of chairs, stools and benches, some of them upholstered in gorgeous fabric from Tokyo or thereabouts. There’s a chandelier and a miscellany of elegant lamps. It’s not a huge space, but somehow it manages to have a number of discrete parts to it – a counter, a wooden benchtop, tables. It’s a folie, a labour of love, an adventure. At the end of the month it becomes a café.

Right! Back to the cleaning.

Comfort reading

Martin Johnston, The Typewriter Considered as a Bee-Trap (Hale and Iremonger 1984)

typewriter003I treasure my memories of Martin Johnston from when we were both in our mid 20s. I was an Eng Lit student, he was a poet – an intense, chain-smoking, introverted writer of largely incomprehensible but manifestly learned poetry. I was in awe. But not just awe: I loved hearing him read – it was like being taken to a different part of the brain. I don’t think I grasped the depth of feelings in the poems back then, dealing as many of them did, opaquely, with the death of his parents.

This book dates from well after those student days, but Martin’s voice is still vividly recognisable. Many of the poems remain impenetrable to me, but that doesn’t seem to matter any more. The pleasure is the main thing. There’s probably a profound reflection on poetry to be made here, something about it being important to take care what you read when young because those poems do to your brain what a magnet does when it strokes a lump of iron: they configure the molecules to be receptive to a particular kind of input.

That is to say, even though Martin’s poetry is austere, erudite, uncompromising, as I read it now I experience the joy and comfort of greeting an old friend. According to a despatch by John Tranter from the Poetry Wars (the 68ers vs the rest?), Les Murray said to Martin of the long sequence ‘To the innate island’: ‘It’s wonderfully rich, evocative and vivacious, but I fear you’ve left the poetry out.’ I have profound respect for Les Murray, especially since he accepted one of my poems for publication in Quadrant, but I can’t see that he’s right. Here’s the opening of the sequence (which admittedly reads a little =differently now in these post LOLcats days:

The small grey cat in the yard has a knack for the punctuational,
Confronted with unfamiliar yoghurt, it curls
bristling into a fluid query, later ingratiates
itself into tactful receding aposiopesis towards the garbage bag,
illuminated exclamation over the yellow light
of a butterfly to be slapped and broken, lays out evenings
in commas at the window, sentences from Proust
lapping to night where all cats are grey.

See what I mean? ‘Aposiopesis’? But if there’s no poetry in it, I’m easily conned.

Les voies d’Anubis

Tim Powers, Les voies d’Anubis (J’ai Lu 1986; translated by Gérard Lebec from ‘l’americain’, original title The Anubis Gates)

2290020117When this turned up on BookMooch en français I decided to seize the chance to brush up my French at the same time as crossing an Apollo Award winner off my TBR list. The plan worked out excellent well. The novel is a fabulously over the top fantasy, like an extended episode of Doctor Who, only there’s no Doctor to help out when the quantum mechanical (or in fact magical) time travel to the England of Coleridge and Byron, and beyond, goes horribly wrong. Or it could be likened to a Cairo Jim adventure with an organisation very like the Old Relics Society and a time-travelling Eng Lit scholar cum pseudo-werewolf in place of Geoffrey McSkimming’s poet-archaeologist: it’s got Egyptian gods, animated statues, history mysteries, but sadly no animal companions. It’s a vastly inventive, rip-roaring picaresque adventure, with a lovely array of grotesque villains, some almost Shakespearean crossdressing, and much derring-do.

Reading it in translation reintroduced me to the childhood pleasures of incomplete comprehension, guessing meaning from the context, sometimes with a fair degree of confidence, occasionally looking a word up, every now and then having a word’s meaning emerge into clarity with repeated appearances, and even – once in a while – knowing what a word means without knowing the English for it (I had to look up embarcadère, for instance, to translate it as landing stage, but I knew what structure it referred to without benefit of dictionary).  I could just about feel my neurons reconfiguring.

The other pleasure came from pace: I was forced to read slowly, so slowly that by the time I’d finished the prologue and the first chapter, I felt as if I’d read a whole book, so in effect I got four or more books for the price of one. This effect was helped, of course, by the episodic structure.

I probably missed a lot, though I did laugh out loud more than once, which means I got at least some of the jokes, and that’s supposed to be the hardest thing when you’re reading in a language you’re not fluent in. In fact, there was at least one joke that might easily have been tailor-made for my situation: a character says at one point ‘Psaume en chemise sans cote de quarte?’ and I wracked my brains (‘Psalm in shirt on side of quad?’ Really?), only to be relieved five lines later when the character articulates carefully, ‘Sauté en mille six cent quatre-vingt-quatre’ (‘Jumped to 1684?’ which is simply reiterating incredulously what someone else has just said). [I just Looked Inside This Book at Amazon, and found that the original poorly articulated line was ‘Jutmoop sidskeen eftee door?’, gibberish which I don’t think would create the same puzzlement in someone who knew English as well as I know French.]

If this had been a ‘serious’ literary work and I’d enjoyed it this much, I’d probably feel that I ought now to read it in the original. While I now have Tim Powers on my list of authors to look out for, I’m happy with one reading of this, happy to recommend it as a constantly surprising and delighting romp either in French or in English.

Middle aged men talk about Anna K

anna002Last night my men’s group book group met to talk about Anna Karenina (Anna Karenin, as she’s called in the second hand copy I bought on Monday), and an excellent evening it was. We had Russian-themed food, largely bought from the venerable Cyril’s delicatessen, and unlike other books this one had us talking from the moment we arrived until suddenly, after a couple of hours, we moved on to fierce debate about what to read next.

Having been distracted by Other Things, I’d only managed to read a little more than 100 pages. But that didn’t stop me from joining in. In fact, as people talked about their favourite bits, I was able to remind them that almost all of those bits were foreshadowed in the early chapters. Another guy, who’d grown a Leninesque beard for the occasion, had read about half as much as I had (pushing out hairs on the chin clearly saps the reading power). Undeterred, he became a technical consultant for the evening, reading passages of exegesis or commentary from the essays up the back of the uni library copy someone had brought: why an adulterous woman in Russia at that time would lose her children, Tolstoy’s quasi-pointilliste method (not at all the mimesis it first seems – and we did have to chat a little about that word mimesis), the way Levin and Anna were two quite different ways of seeking, um, transcendence …

Sadly, if the way Anna dies hadn’t been the one thing I knew for sure about the book, it would certainly have been spoiled for me. No one bothered, in the manner of Mark Kermode discussing the latest Harry Potter, to refer to ‘the unhappy event’. I guess Anna’s suicide isn’t the big surprise that  Dumbledore’s death is.

What a wonderful book! As someone said, it’s a page-turner, yet it had us talking about spirituality, sexism, the industrial revolution, deep moral dilemmas, the uses of fiction, Tolstoy’s journey, the fascinating architecture of the book, excellent university moments from bygone days (two people remembered with awe Peter Shrubb‘s lecture on the first paragraph of Emma), the perils of translation (three translations in the room, three versions of the famous opening sentence) and much more. ‘I don’t read classics,’ one man said, ‘I don’t want to read stuff that someone thinks is good for me – but this was terrific.’ Now I’ve got a week to finish it.

The future prime minister and other animals

In days of yore at The School Magazine we used to comment to each other that Noelene Martin had a nose for the parts of someone’s life that would grab young readers’ interest. Her first book, Freda, a biography of Freda Whitlam, shows that her nose stays good when she’s writing for adults. In today’s Spectrum, it’s Bruce Elder’s Pick of the Week, and his review gives a good sense of the book:

This is not a conventional biography. It is, essentially, a life crafted out of a series of interviews and conversations with the subject. It reads like a quirky, chatty, anecdotal account of a life full of interest and incident. Some events, important in an individual life, but unimportant in an overview of a career, keep interjecting themselves into the narrative to such a point that Ms Whitlam’s childhood comes across like young Gerald Durrell in My Family and Other Animals.

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But of course my regular readers read about it here first. Oh, and in case you’d like a copy (and you know you would) but are shy about calling the phone number given in the Spectrum, you can email mrsmarty AT aapt DOT net DOT au.

Not everybody hates the Chaser

In case, like me, you’ve ever wondered how people who are involuntary participants in a Chaser skit feel about the event, you may be interested in this one sample.

It was slow in the Annandale Post Office just now. When the two women behind the counter exchanged a couple of words in a language I didn’t recognise, I asked what language it was. ‘Tagalog,’ they said, ‘we weren’t talking about you.’ Which reminded me of last night’s Chaser skit, one of the very few I found funny, where they pretended to be USians who couldn’t understand the language spoken in England, asking people repeatedly if they could speak English. When I mentioned the Chaser, I didn’t get as far as mentioning that skit, because both women beamed with delight:

‘The Chaser! They came here! They tried to post a piano. They said they were moving to Burwood and wanted to send the piano through the mail.’

They both laughed and laughed, describing the absurd conversation, pointing to where the cameraman had stood. I asked if that bit had been screened, but they didn’t know: they don’t actually watch it.

I came home and found some photos of the shoot, which includes Glebe Post Office as well as Annandale. My interlocutors are in the background of one or two.

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Screen grab of a photo by Edwina Pickles

Of course, the hapless employes of tobacco companies, the odd minister of religion woken in the wee hours to be asked if he’s had any more predictive dreams, the Rudds who are just trying to go to church looking as if they’re weathering a family crisis, the US vox pops who are made to look stupid in the extreme – these may not look back on their encounters with quite as much joy. But it’s good to know that some people do.

Corner shop: the (inside) story so far

Rod, proprietor of our approaching corner shop /cafe, has had enough leisure time to post a photo essay in the window:

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Here’s the detail:

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Finished! Woo hoo! Opening day can’t be far off.

Annandale pride

When I mentioned to a neighbour that I have a blog where I occasionally post snaps from around Annandale, she said she had an idea for me: ‘If archaeologists are sifting through the ruins of Annandale one day, they might think we worshipped lions. You should photograph some of them and make a joke about pride.’

So here they are, all within a hundred metres of each other, though they’re not a pride because, oddly enough, they’re all male.

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